The restaurants that brought their mission beyond the plate
It’s an Eater tradition to round out the year with a survey of local food experts — editors, writers, reporters, and a select few others — on the highs, lows, and surprises of the past 365 days in dining. Today, our panel looks at local restaurants that stepped up for their communities in 2022, and how they did it. Have thoughts to share? Feel free to add them in the comments.
I think the Fhima family is one that continues to support and host charitable organizations, gives away a lot of free food to anyone who needs it, and tries hard to champion the downtown scene (which is a very important flag to fly).
Owamni continues to be the most important restaurant in the country. Ideas like “local” or “farm-to-table” are meaningless and hollow without Indigenous perspectives and focus on the true and original meaning of American food.
I really love and appreciate what Houston White is doing in North Minneapolis. I adore his coffee shop with the mission of making specialty coffee welcoming and diverse and how his embrace of the North Side and BIPOC endeavors is going to diversify our scene.
This is kind of an unconventional spin on that question, but I think the arrival of Owamni is a huge deal for everyone around here — it’s bringing a lot of recognition to the pre-colonial American Indian pantry and to the food stories that were saved (and lost) after the colonial conquest of the United State. It’s already become a crucial piece of the culinary narrative fabric, and it means a lot to a great many people.
Owamni’s mission, in all its layers, is remarkable — and so is that of NATIFS and the Indigenous Food Lab at Midtown Global Market.